Norm Crisp on Fly Fishing and his Travel Adventures

A new Stream

2012-01-27T08:21:00.000-06:00

After a day of housekeeping – as in cleaning two inches of dust out of the car – I went fishing yesterday. Found a great mountain stream. Actually re-found would be a better way to describe it. A couple of years ago, when Ethan and I made the “Race the Sun” trip, we saw it and though that it might be worth investigating. Yesterday I finally got to do it with Gerlof. Access is relatively easy as a hiking trail parallels the stream for about 1.5 Km. Where the trail turns away from the stream to bypass a gorge, I cut down to the stream and walked along it to where it hit the gorge. Gerlof being still young and full of energy had to go up and over the gorge to see what is on the other side. I did one of those “let’s see what is over that hill “ trips with him last year on the Perdogosa! Not this year.

This stream has a relatively high gradient with a good combination of pockets and bigger pools. For a confirmed small stream guy like me it is perfect. And, the size of the rocks was just right for walking and wadding. With no-felt soles this is more important than you might realize.

The stream just has the look of a Rainbow stream. A couple of streams I’ve fished in the same general watershed have both Rainbows and Browns but this one only had Browns – while actually Gerlof did get one rainbow below the gorge. And there were lots of Browns. I’m not a fish counter. For me it is more of a qualitative disruptive process: OK, Fair number of fish, Good day, and One hell of a day. Yesterday was One hell of a day. It seemed like every pocket you popped

your big fat foam fly had a Brown between 11 and 13 inches in it with more than

a few 14 to 15 inch fish.

I brought two video cameras with me on this trip. I'm like a kid in a candy store with them. To put it in prospective let me quote my son Ethan: (Me) "E, did you see the videos I put on Facebook?" (Ethan) " Sure did Pop, all 27 of them. Your getting to be a geek!" (editors note: I think I just but 3 or 4 up).

I'm not a geek. If I was I'd know how to use them. Take the helmet camera for example. With fish after fish coming up to my fly I thought, "what a great place to use the helmet camera to catch the rise on video!" Out of the bag comes the camera and on it goes. I'm turning it on at each new run, catching a fish and turning it of to save the battery. I'm sure I have some awesome footage. NOT.

What I'm doing is taking a single "snapshot" each time. Do have some nice wide angle shots. And I think I now know how to use the camera in video mode.

I'll get some footage of a take yet!

IN THE VACINITY OF LA JUNTA

2012-01-26T05:20:00.000-06:00

Both Gerlof and I have been noosing around the area along the Carretera Austral for the past 4 or 5 years looking for new places to fish. Historically most of the people that have come to Patagonia to fish have gone to the lodges. The typical programs at a lodge is a couple of days floating the bigger and well know rivers and a couple of days fishing the lakes and lagoons. Very few offer walk wade fishing on the numerous other smaller rivers and streams. But things are starting to change a little. There are starting to be more folks like Gerlof and me. Some stumble along like us, finding some rare gems of streams and then also fishing some streams that are complete bust. Others try to pick our brains to find out what we have discovered. And then there a few that just take them. They are like burglars with a GPS in their pocket. Oh well, live and learn. Over a glass of wine in a small Hospedaja we made a pack. Rivers remain a mystery to all but the two of us. No names and just general locations, as “in the vicinity of La Junta.”

Our first location near La Junta was a river slightly bigger than the ones we normally fish. But the water levels are a bit low this year so we were able to wade through shallow areas and find scattered spots where we could cross. It took us all afternoon to fish about a kilometer and a half up the river. We stopped where a nice tributary came in. Most of our fish were Rainbows in the 13 to 15 inch range, a few fish 15 to 18 inches and one 20 incher for Gerlof from the tributary. The Browns we got into tended to be larger, 15 to 18 inches. Right below where the tributary entered was a long deep run. It was full of fish just waiting for our big foam flies. As we were reaching the head of the run we looked upstream and saw a fishing raft coming toward us. The guide, looking very, very upset and talking tough for the benefit of the clients said, ”What are you doing here and how did you find this place? You didn’t leave us any fish did you? ” He wasn’t interested in an answer.

Google Earth is the nosy fly fisher’s friend. If a lodge got a raft into the river someplace upstream there were two likely alternatives: 1) the lodge was located someplace upstream on the river or 2) there was a way to get to the river that didn’t show on the maps we had. If the answer was the first alternative we were finished. But if the answer was the second we were in “Fat City.” It looked like we were in “Fat City.” Panning up the river on Google Earth, we found what looked like it might be a narrow road, barely more than a track, which led down to the river. After about 3 Km the road became too rough for the car. But what is a few Km walk to reach potentially rarely fished water? Beside the bridge over the river was a gap in the willows that looked like where the rafts were launched. The rest of the day was simply amazing, fishing over fish that in all likelihood had rarely if ever been fished to. That night in La Junta we plotted our next year’s assault. We would pack a sleeping bag, tarp, camp stove, rice and oil in our waterproof backpacks and fish up for a couple of days.

The next morning we were off on a new quest. On the way to our primary objective we crossed several small streams. At each one we pulled the car off to the side of the road, scanned the water and debated where it was worth our limited time to give it a “test fish”. A couple made the grade and rewarded us. And a couple of them were less than rewarding. The fishing at our primary objective was about as good as on the previous day’s river. This time we didn’t run into any floaters. But we cut the day a bit short when in late afternoon the river started to get off colored. Once that happened the fishing shut down. We were too far away from “civilization” for the color to be due to gravel mining and washing. Our only explanation was that it had rained in the headwaters the night before.

A long day’s drive, with stops at one disappointing small stream and another gem of a find brought us to Coyhaique and the end of our fishing odyssey. Tomorrow I would clean 600 miles of gravel road dust out of the car and Gerlof would pack for a 10 day trip to Argentina. But tonight we would meet at the Restaurant Charcabuco to have a beer and watch the TV, with the owner Juan, as the soccer team Colo Colo disappointed us once again. The Chilean trout sure didn’t disappoint us on this adventure.

Heading North To Meet Gerlof

2012-01-25T10:14:00.000-06:00

The long journey, and I do mean long via Chicago and Miami, from home to Coyhaique was basically without incident. Everything made except one thing. Some place in the Santiago Airport is a debit card without a home. But thanks to WiFi at Veronica’s no harm has or will be done.

On the 18th, a little later in the morning than I had hope, I started the long trek toward Futaleufu. I was late getting on the road because I needed to make sure my float tube was OK. The distance isn’t all that far – 420 Km – but when over 300 Km is one or maybe two lane gravel road it is a long if you are lucky, if not it is a lot further. I headed that far

north to meet my Dutch friend and once a year fishing companion Gerlof. He had taken the overnight bus from Santiago to Puerto Montt so he could float the Rio Maullin, the outflow from Chile’s second largest lake. Gerlof’s idea of floating is not what most people think of. He floats the river in his float tube!   From there he caught another bus, via Argentina, to Futaleufu where I picked him up for our drive along the Carretera Austral back to Coyhaique, fishing our way home.

Futaleufu is a tourist destination, but not for fishing. The Rio Futaleufu is world class white water rafting and kayaking water. But for small stream fly fishers like Gerlof and me there are more than a few opportunities.   The Ro Chico, just outside of town of the road toward Argentina, was our first stop. This is a small stream fishers kind of stream with pockets and runs. And, being in the mountains of Chile, there are of course gorges and waterfalls. From there we headed back toward the Austral. To reach the Austral we had to cross – that means fish – two more rivers. The first was a bit of a surprise.   I was expecting Rainbows. Sure the stream had as a few Rainbows but Brook Trout were the surprise! As I headed back toward the car, I waded below a slow run. I made that quick obligatory cast you always make. Bam, my only brown!   I had my first Chilean Grand Slam! The last river of the day, the Rio Malito was much bigger and rather boring after the others two streams and we debated stopping to fish it. But it would have been wrong to drive over it without stopping and catch at least one or two fish.

Our final stop of the day was the shoreline Largo Yelcho. Largo Yelcho is world famous for its big rainbow trout. We would camp that night on the shore. Gerlof, apparently like most Dutch fly fishers, is a confirmed float tuber.   He knows the Yelcho well having floated it many times.   His idea was that if the wind wasn’t blowing we would fish it for something to go with our meal of rice and eggs. The wind wasn’t bowing. I have a float tube. In fact I’ve had one for about 10 year. And in those 10 years, I’ve used it exactly once! So here I am on a BIG lake with float tube expert expected to help secure diner.   Graceful in my attempt to get into the tube and then into the water, I was not. But with only two falls I made it. Float tube fishing is very different than anything I have done. First off I was just plain nervous about being in the tube and secondly for a barely acceptable caster trying to cast a full sink line with your elbow just above the water level is not a pretty sight.   Realizing my limitations, I resorted to “trolling” a Pancora imitation. I’d make the longest and sloppiest cast I could and then just kick like hell and twitch my rod from time to time. Guess what? The twitcher secured food while the artful floater came up empty!

The next morning after a shore breakfast of fried eggs and trout we set off for our next fishing adventure.

NYMPH FISHING TIPS AND TECHNIQUES: STRIKE INDICATORS

2011-12-29T07:30:00.000-06:00

Nymph fishing techniques, in general and more specifically strike indicators, will generate as much heated discussion among fly fishers as any topic: to use an indicator or not to use one, which type of indicator to use, and where to place the indicator on the leader. Every nympher will have a different opinion on these nymph fishing nuances. Like most things in life, the best choices are situational.

There are those, often curmudgeonly individuals, who refuse to use an indicator and speak of a Zen like feeling for when there is a take. I’m about as curmudgeonly as they come, but have apparently have never reached that Zen like state when I never need a strike indicator.

Under most nymphing situations an indicator is called for. But there is one situation where an indicator may not be necessary or even the right thing at all, short line or high stick nymphing. In this situation, where your line is hanging directly below the tip of your rod, you can get a drag-free drift by moving the tip of your rod along the seam you want to fish your nymph in. Since the nymph will be directly below your rod tip you can be sure of where the nymph is drifting. And being “tight to the nymph” the take will be transmitted to you via the rod.

In situations other than ‘high sticking” an indicator is basically essential for an acceptable drift. With an indicator your nymph will hang directly below and perpendicular to the water surface. Without the indicator the cross stream currents will cause your line to swing and pull your nymph out of your drift line up toward the surface and toward you. That is not to say that simply putting on an indicator will eliminate a swing. You still have to mend to keep the line at as close to a right angle to the indicator as possible and the nymph and indicator in the current seam you want to fish.

In choosing an indicator, look for these four things: floatability, castability, color and. easy position adjustment. By floatability I mean an indicator that has enough buoyancy to be able to support the weight of the nymph you are fishing. Select the smallest indicator that will do the job for the flow conditions. In smooth water and for spooky fish a big indicator will often put fish down. In heavy water you generally will need a bigger indicator for the same weight fly. Remember, the smaller the better

Nymph fishing does not require artful casting. I’m sure you have heard it described as “Chuck and Duck!” By castability I’m referring to the additional wind resistance and weight. This is especially true with the yarn type indicators. Pick an indicator that doesn't interfere with your casting. As with floatability, the smaller the better.

Color? Most indicators tend to be a shade of florescent pink or light orange with a few in a florescent line green or plain white. I learned about color from my time working as a water scientist. We used florescent dye to study stream mixing zones and determine “time of travel”. I remember standing on a bridge with a co-worker and said “Here come the leading edge”. He looked at me like I was joking with him. We had used Rhodamine WT, a fluorescent pink dye and he couldn’t see it. On the other hand if we used Fluorescein Dye, a florescent green dye, I couldn’t see it. So what about white? If you are nymphing in water with a lot of foam and low light conditions a white indicator often gets lost. That is especially true with small indicators.

Perhaps even more important than the fly your chose of the nymph to use, is making sure that your choice gets down to where the fish are. As water depths change and you need to adjust the depth of your nymph, an indicator that can be moved up or down easily is what you want. My experience is that the various press on foam or indicator putties don’t work well and the residue left behind on your leader tends to inhibit sinking.

Nymphing on streams were the depth doesn’t change that much from one location to location, the need to be able to re-position your indicator on the leader isn’t all that critical. This is often the case on small streams or pocket water areas. In these situation I’ll generally go with a high floating dry fly such as an Elk Hair Caddis or a Stimulator as an indicator. I just tie my nymph on as a dropper at about 1.5 times the depth of the water and leave it there.

So what is my indicator of choice? For me it is a pink Thingamabobber. I buy the smallest size, ½ inch. If I need more buoyancy for a big Mohair leech in heavy water I just add a second one.

DRY FLY FISHING TIPS AND TECHNIQUES: ASSUME THE POSITION!

2011-11-21T13:22:00.000-06:00

Finding fishy locations is relatively simple. This is especially true on small streams. Find that place that meet a trout’s need for protection from the current, protection from predators and is near a steady food supply and you are at the right location. Or, if you’re on the stream when the fish are rising the fish are doing all the work for you. When all else fails you can do as we suggest and “Fish the edges, the ledges and the foam going past the rock.” Most fly fishers with a little experience are able to, as they say, “read the water.” With more experience and time on the stream you progress from reading Dr. Sousse to reading War and Peace. Knowing the right locations to cast is important but something that is often overlooked is being in the right position to fish that great location.

There are three critical elements to the perfect position at any location. If you are lucky, sometime you can have all three of these elements. On big water there is a much better chance of finding a position that provides all three of these elements. On small streams I feel good if I can just getting two of the three elements at a prime location! Here are my three critical elements.

Position for the Best Drift. A couple of years ago I had a client for our Wyoming CutSlam program fishing Soda Butte Creek above Ice Box Canyon in Yellowstone National Park. He is an FFF Certified Casting Instructor. A nice Yellowstone Cut was actively rising. The fish was holding right on the edge of a seam as the current broke off a spruce lying out from the right descending bank of Soda Butte Creek. The client was a fantastic caster and made several great casts but just couldn’t get a suitable drift.

“How about if you wade across the creek and get on the same side of the current seam that the fish is on? That way you don’t have to do a puddle cast and ‘you can make a better presentation.”

All it took was wading across the creek to get in the right position to make an easy drag free drift over the fish. The second or third cast took a 16 inch Yellowstone.

As you approach a prime location evaluate where the best position is to get the best drift, the most un-obstructed cast and best opportunity to cover the water. Move toward that position as you move up the stream. In addition to un-obstructed casts look for the position that lets you make a cast across the fewest conflicting currents. This will maximize your chances for a drag free drift. In a perfect situation you will move to a position that puts you at a slight – about 30 degrees – angle off to the side of the fish. This position will put you on the edge of the fish’s blind spot and permit a cast without “lining” the fish

Position for Casting. What value is fishy spot if you can’t get in a position where you can make a cast? As you approach each new location, look to see where you can position yourself so you can make a cast. Evaluate each side of the stream to see if there will be enough space behind you to be able to make a back cast. On small stream this is often critical. Be prepared to have to cross to the other side of the stream to be able to cast or perhaps this location will require a roll cast. You may even have to resort to a “bow and arrow” or other specialty cast. Another approach to a casting position problem may be to make an across the body cast. Often that will work, but an even better solution is to learn how to cast “Off Handed”. It is not that hard to learn to cast but it will take you a while to become comfortable with line management and control. But in the long run off hand casting and improving the specialty casts will resolve a lot of your casting position problems.

Position to Land the Fish. Maybe it is the

predator in me, but I assume that every cast is going to bring up a fish. Why cast to empty water. With that in mind, before I cast I have an “exit strategy.” I pre-plan how I want to handle the fish that I’ll catch. Not all positions offer you an “easy out”. There may be brush or other obstacles that make it next to impossible to get your fish to a position where you can control him. Or you may turn the fish too far into the current. Either because you need too or you made a mistake and the fish gets below you try throwing a little slack in the line. Often if the fish feels less pressure it will stop running and you can move into a better location to land your fish.

Generally, the smaller the stream at each great fishing location, the less likely you will be to find that one position that meets all three of my criteria. Any time I have to choose one of the factors it will almost always be for the position that gives me best drift. Then, every once in a while you find that position where you can have the stars align and you have the perfect position at a big fish location.

Chuck's last fishing trip

2011-08-24T19:12:00.000-05:00

Back in May I receive this e-mail from a man named Chuck:

I have a story, and I would like to see if I can get your help if possible. For most of the 1960's and 1970's, when I was a kid, my family and I spent about 2 weeks every summer at the log cabins on French Creek Ranch. We would drive from Los Angeles, CA, making the long trip in about 3 days. The owner of French Creek at the time was a lady named Millie Sanger, who I'm sure, has long passed away. My mom and her family were even going there since my mom was a little girl, staying at the old Jenkins place. My Grandfather was a big fly fishing fan and taught my dad how to fly fish when he and my mom got married. When we were old enough, my dad taught my younger brother and myself how to fly fish on the North Platte River and French Creek. It was my dad's favorite place to visit; he loved it up there and looked forward to those 3 weeks every year. Some of my best childhood memories took place on that ranch. I remember the log cabins, the pond out in front, the big lodge...everything. I could tell stories for hours about that place.

Anyway, my dad sadly passed away on April 15th, and his body was cremated. My mom, brother and I would love to have his ashes sent down French Creek, along with his old (and I do mean old) fishing hat. My mom and brother live in Northern California, and I live in South Carolina. I guess I have two questions. First, as far as sending the ashes down the creek, is this something you would be willing to do for us? And second, if I was able to fly into Laramie, would I be able to make a day trip to French Creek with your help, and send of the ashes myself? Please feel free to email me back and let me know any thoughts you have.

Bring the romantic that I am I immediately contacted Chuck. I told him that not only would I be happy to do it for the family, I’d be damn happy and honored to do it for them. Asked about how they had found me, Chuck said they googled “French Creek, Wyoming and Fly Fishing” and my web site came up on top. After going through my site they knew in their heart that I would do it and was the “right” one to do it.

As I learned more about Chuck’s dad – also called Chuck – the commitment to do this for the family became obvious. Having served in the Marines I have a kinship with all other Marines. In a similar way being a devout fly fisher I have a kinship with all other diehard fly fishers and Chuck the elder and I had that fly fishing connection. It was just too ironic that Chuck’s favorite place to fish, French Creek, is one of my favorite streams in the world. In fact I have always said if I could only fish one more time before I went blind it would be on French Creek in mid-July.

Over the next two months as I began to prepare for my summer long guiding trip to Wyoming, I mentioned my added responsibility to my friends, fly fishing accomplices and clients. Everyone thought it was a kind and thoughtful act by both the family and me. Everyone asked “can I be part of it?” My plan was to catch a big trout from one of my “secret” locations on French Creek, place Chuck’s ashes in his old fishing hat, and release both Chuck and the trout together down French Creek. The family’s response to my plan was that it exceeded their prayers. The logistic were relatively simple. Chuck’s widow would have this ashes sent to me. In late June Chuck’s ashes arrived via certified mail. She also sent me the material form the memorial service and a picture of Chuck in his younger days wearing his fishing hat.

Chuck’s ashes went into my truck and off we went to Wyoming. The winter of 2010-2011 was one of the worst on record for the Snowy Range Mountains, the source of French Creek. On July 11^th as I drove through the Snowy Range there was still more than three feet of snow back in the woods! I knew that French Creek would still be at peak spring runoff levels. The drive along the Forest Service road that crosses and then parallels French Creek confirmed my fear. There was no way I could fish French Creek for at least a month. By that time I’d have to be in northwest Wyoming to guide. My plan for the release of Chuck, his hat and a good fish was not going to happen.

I had decide early on that there two people I wanted to be part of this occasion, my true and special friends, guides and fishing companions Duane and Preston. Duane would be with me all summer but Preston had only a limited window of time available. The last possible day we would all be together was the 22^nd of July. A scout of possible location revealed that a little side channel by the Tie Hack Trail bridge would provide a place where I could at least fish and maybe catch something.

On the morning of the 22^ndof July, over coffee by our campfire I got Chuck out of the truck and we opened the US Postal Service package. Inside was Chuck’s old, and I do mean old, fishing hat and a brown container. Inside the container was a plastic bag containing Chuck’s ashes. By about 10:15 we were at the Tie Hack Trail bridge. With Preston’s son Nate, a professional photographer, recording the event, I wadded across the side channel to the edge of the main flow of French Creek with the container of Chuck’s ashes and his hat under my arm. I sat Chuck and his hat on a small gravel bar and made several casts into the side channel. My hope to be able to release Chuck and a fish was not going to happen. I made my way to a rock on the edge of the fastest current, put Chuck’s hat down on the rock, took the bag of ashes from the container and filed his hat with them. With a smile on my face and a glade heart, I slide the hat off the rock and waved good bye as the current set Chuck free.

I hadn’t poured all of Chuck’s ashes into his hat. There was still about a third of a cup of ashes left in the plastic bag. My first thought was to go up on the bridge and dump them. Then a thought occurred to me. Maybe I could take Chuck on one last long fishing trip. I would be fishing in the Encampment area with clients for the remainder of July and then heading west into the Bridger-Tetons for three weeks. From there I would head home to Kansas City. Just a slight detour would take me past French Creek at the end of August. By then French Creek should be fishable. Hopefully then I could release Chuck’s final remains and a nice French Creek trout! When I contacted Chuck’s widow with my proposal I received a resounding YES!

So Chuck and I went off on his last great fishing trip. Over the next several weeks we had a chance to fish with a lot of different people throughout western Wyoming’s Bridger-Teton’s and up into Yellowstone. At each new location I marked the spot with my personal locator and whenever I had internet access I’d send Shirley a report on where we fished, who we fished with, and how we did.

On the afternoon of August 21^st I took Chuck back to French Creek for one last fish. I didn’t want anyone one with Chuck and me for this final time on the stream. It had to be just him and me for these last casts. Having anyone, even my closest friends, along would have made it too much of a spectacle. The Tie Hack pool, just a few hundred yards below where I had released most of Chuck’s ashes always has a few nice fish in it. The pool didn’t disappoint me. Within a few casts a beautiful rainbow rose to our size 14 Elk Hair Caddis. I quickly brought the fish into some slack water, sprinkled most of Chuck’s ashes into the water and placed a few remaining ashes onto our trout. As Chuck and our trout swam off I realized what a special gift I had been given and been able to share with so many others. We can all only hope that our lives will touch so many people.

Tight Lines Chuck!

So Long Cicadas. See Your Relatives In 4 Years!

2011-07-03T14:10:00.000-05:00

While it lasted it was great fun. But all good things come to an end. Now it is a waiting game. The 17 year Cicadas will make their return in just 4 more years.

The 13 year Cicadas started emerging in the middle of May and soon the hillsides in the Missouri Ozarks were buzzing with them. There were some misconceptions among fisherman about them. Many thought that they would be on the streams the way mayflies and caddis flies are after a hatch. That misconception may explain why we didn't see more folks fishing them. Folks went to the stream, didn't see "clouds" of them and assumed that they weren't there. We made 6 trips between the the 7th and 19th of June and caught more than our fair share. True, we likely didn't see more than two dozen on the water in all those trips but Missouri's wild rainbows were fools for them. Enough were falling out of the trees to keep the trout interested.

As these photos attest, Missouri's wild rainbow trout streams harbor some very nice fish! It is going to be frustrating to fish them now and not get some of the fish we know are in them!

So Long Cicadas. See Your Relatives in 4 Years!

FELT SOLES AND INVASIVE SPECIES

2011-05-28T14:23:00.001-05:00

I’m always surprised at how enacted and proposed bans on felt soled wading boots stirs some much emotion within the fly fishing community. I’ve heard arguments that range from it being a conspiracy by the boot manufactures so they can sell us new boots, to more government intrusion into our lives, to “well what about shoe laces?”

Invasive species are a problem and anything we can do to slow their spread and minimize their impact needs to be done. In my Missouri Ozarks we are faced with the Emerald Ash Borer. The Great Lakes were devastated by sea lampreys and are now threatened with bighead carp. We like to talk about being the “stewards of the resource”, so why when we have a reason and way to steward our resource do we balk at it?

Didymo (also called Rock Snot) is short hand for the diatom Didymosphenia geminate. Didymo doesn’t completely decimate a stream but it does change the diversity and community structure of the food base. The dense growth that covers the stream bed reduces the numbers of mayflies, stoneflies and caddisflies and increases the numbers of more tolerant species. Add to that the esthetic impacts of stream beds that look like they are covered with toilet paper.

There is a lot of anecdotal evidence that invasion by Rock Snot has an adverse economic, as well as environmental impact and that as Didymo continues to spread the impact will be more intense. My first encounter with Didymo was this winter on the lower section of the Rio Guillermo in Chile. In Patagonia fly fishing
http://streamsideadventures.com/slideshows/chile-2011/index.html
is important to the local economy with the many foreigners coming to stay at the high-end lodges. The Chilean fisheries agency is serious about strategies to slow or stop spread of Rock Snot. When we purchase our permit we also receive a tri-fold brochure in English about Didymo. On the highway just outside the

airport is a billboard about Didymo. And one morning we were stopped at a police road block and asked if we had fishing gear with us. When Ethan told them “yes” the police called over the fisheries agency to disinfect our gear. A police roadblock is a serious commitment. I expect that before long felt will be banned in Chile.

The cliché that the “Genie is out of the bottle” is true for Rock Snot. We will never eliminate it. What we have to do is all work to see that we do our part to stop the spread. So what can and should we do? First off, stop whining about having to by new boots without felt soles. We older guys will miss the felt because the new soles just don’t give the traction of felt. Hell I started using a wading staff everyplace anyway. Carry disinfectant with you and disinfect even non-felt boots. STREAM SIDE ADVENTURES carries a garden sprayer containing a 5% bleach solution. When we get to the stream everyone’s boots get sprayed and when we get back to the truck at the end of the day the boots get sprayed again. It is as easy to practice stewardship as it is to talk about it.

Floods and Fly Fishing

2011-05-20T07:17:00.000-05:00

High flows are generally not a significant problem for fish in the stream. Cold water fish like trout have evolved in a system of periods of very high flow associated with snow melt runoff. Sure some are lost by getting stranded in backwater pools that become isolated as the high water receeds. But most escape the current associated with high runoff flows the same way they escape them in their everyday existence. They find shelter in depressions and behind obstructions. If flows haven’t altered the stream bed, when the flow recede they move back into their former preferred locations. (For more information on stream flow and how it effects trout and trout fishing visit these two links http://streamsideadventures.com/seminars/fluid-mechanics-seminar.html http://streamsideadventures.com/tips-and-techniques/fluid-mechanics.html)

The substrate or bottom material of some Missouri trout streams is composed primarily of small, pea to walnut sized, material, sometimes called “chert”, with small scattered areas of larger rock fragments or exposed bed rock. When streams with this type of bottom material flood, the stream velocity increases to a level high enough to erode the bottom material and move it in suspension or by dragging it along – a process known as traction.

It is the movement of the bottom material associated with floods that can cause problems for Missouri’s trout. When the stream floods and moves the chert it displaces and grinds the fish food organisms – benthos – living on or between the gravel. When the storm flows recede much of the food base is gone. A couple of years ago I had an “Ah ha” moment about this on the way home from Missouri’s Current River http://streamsideadventures.com/tips-and-techniques/fluid-mechanics.html. Even floods later in the year are not going to be devastating to the food base of the stream. Midges and caddis flies are the primary food source in terms of absolute numbers and biomass. And most of them have several broods a year. Some midges can complete their life cycle in no more than a few weeks. Many of the smaller caddis flies also have short life histories. So before long there will be food on the table.

Yes, flooding can slow down the fishing for a little while but it will recover very quickly compared to the devastating effects of drought. To me the worst thing about a flood event is that the stream has changed so much I have to find new “go to” holes.

How to have USGS tell you to go fishing!

2011-05-17T12:12:00.000-05:00

As a guide and a passionate fly fisher, I know that hitting the river at the optimum flow levels is critical to success. Over years of fishing my favorite rivers and streams I’ve developed a feel for what river levels generally fish the best and what river levels make the river unsafe or too difficult for wading. I have the USGS real time data from my go to streams bookmarked. Wouldn’t it be nice if the USGS called me when the Little Piney was at the right water levels. Guess what. They will!

The other night I was looking at the USGS real time data for the Little Piney, trying to decide if there was any sense in making the trip to Rolla in a couple of days. I’ve been looking at this and other USGS gauges for years and thought I knew a lot about the available

information. But when I looked the other night I noticed something I had never noticed before on a gauge site. I have no idea how long it has been there. Right below the graph of the flow was a little button. Water Alert.

I clicked on it and boy did I find something great. I can get the USGS to call or E-mail me with my user-defined threshold(s). Want to be notified when the flow exceeds some level? Set the limit and the USGS will contact you. Has your fishing history told you that the river fishes best between some range of flows?

Set the range and when the flow level is in that range they will contact you.

How great is that! Now all you have to do is fish often enough to establish you own thresholds. GO FISH!

The Cicadas Are Coming!

2011-05-02T14:57:00.000-05:00

The last time this happened I missed it! It was one of those once in a lifetime events when both a brood of the 13 year and the 17 year Periodic Cicadas emerged in 1998. That was first time since 1777 that both broods have emerged at the same time. This time it will just be Brood 19 of the 13 year Cicadas but I’m not missing it!

Brood 19 of the 13 year Periodic Cicadas will start to appear any day now depending on weather conditions. I’ve heard on good authority that they have started to emerge in the southern portion of the range. In the hearty of Missouri’s trout and smallmouth country, the emergence will likely run from the last third of May into much of June.

These guys are BIG and plentiful.    They can be up to an inch and a half long and are nearly an inch in diameter.   They have a blackish-brown body with rusty orange eyes, legs and wing veins. Fish feed so wildly on them that an exact match is not important. Any big dark floating fly will work. Just slap your fly down hard and hold on!

The females lay their eggs by making a cut in the end of branches and twigs, primarily oaks. The cuts cause the leaves on the ends of the branches to shrivel and die.   The eggs hatch in about 6 weeks and fall to the ground. After spending the next 13 years underground they will return again.

The adults get all the publicity but the nymph stage shouldn’t be overlooked.   The guru of Missouri trout fishing, Mike Kruse, took advantage of the 1998 emergence well into July when the adults were gone. Mike came up with his “Power Worm.”   The Power Worm is a fast and simple fly to tie. Per Mike, start with a size 8 Mustad 9672 or equivalent hook. Tie in an orange saddle hackle (Editor’s note: Mike didn’t specify but likely by the tip) at the hook bend. Tie in short black flash chenille and warp it forward. Palmer the hackle over the body. Simple as that.

It will be three months to remember.

Photo Contest Award

2011-04-27T11:26:00.000-05:00

I am proud to announce that a photo by STREAM SIDE ADVENTURES’ guide Ethan Crisp has been awarded the grand prize in the Federation of Fly Fishers Gulf Coast Fly Fishing Expo 2011 photo contest.

Ethan’s photo is an underwater shot of a beautiful brown trout caught while he was guiding on the Rio Pedragosa near Coyhaique Alto in Patagonia, Chile.

In addition to guiding in Patagonia, Ethan serves as STREAM SIDE ADVENTURES’ logistics manger in Chile and guides in the Missouri Ozarks and Wyoming.

Congratulations Ethan!

A butcher, banker and auto mechanic

2011-04-12T18:57:00.000-05:00

My dad was, in retrospect, a very smart man. Of course as a boy I thought he was very dumb. Dad tended to communicate via his sayings. Unfortunately at the time I didn’t have the experiences to translate them into life lessons. That came with my aging.

One of Dad’s favorites was: “Get to know a butcher, banker and an automobile mechanic. Those are the people you will make your life easier.” I have taken Dad’s advice both at the surface level and at his deeper meaning. Jeff the butcher picks out the best T-bone for me, Ron the banker makes sure that they don’t put a fraud hold on my debit card while I’m off someplace on an adventure, and Karl the mechanic always makes the time to fix the flat tire from a recently graded Wyoming back road. The deeper meaning of Dad’s saying was that the world runs on relationships. Fortunately I have a relationship to help me on my Mongolian trip.

During my previous life, I had the opportunity to do some collaborative research projects with Dr. Len Ferrington while he was at the University of Kansas. Our scientific and personal interests meshed well and in addition to doing our research we became friends. In 2004, Len had the opportunity to be part of a joint US – Mongolian scientific expedition funded by the National Science Foundation. Time to add “and someone who has experience in Mongolia” to Dad’s saying.

An e-mail and a call to Len made all the difference in moving this trip from wishful thinking to possible. The in country logistics of the National Science Foundation expedition had been arranged by Soninkhishig Nergui Ph.D. , Head of Botany Department and Chair of Water Research Center, School of Biology and Biotechnology at National University of Mongolia. Len was kind enough to send an e-mail of introduction to Dr. Nergui and asked if she would be able to help me with in country arrangements for my trip.

Since Len’s initial contact with Dr. Nergui, the trip logistics have fallen nicely into place! Dr. Nergui found a driver, her “uncle in law” Zundui. Zundui, now retired from driving a gasoline truck, has a small van and will drive for me. Zundui is from the central mountain area of Arkhangai Province, loves to hunt and has many good friends and family in the region. In one fell swoop, thanks to relationships, my Mongolian adventure has come together. I’ll get to fish, enjoy local food and culture and maybe help herd the yaks. Like so many other things Dad was right. Ethan, Dan are you listening!

Mongolia is not all that hard to get to. But it sure takes a long time!

2011-03-29T11:46:00.000-05:00

From Kansas City to Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia is one hell of a long way, somewhere in the vicinity of 8,500 miles and 23 hours of travel time. I sure don’t look forward to that part of this adventure. But imagine what Genghis Kahn or Marco Polo had to go through.

You can get to Ulaanbaatar by train from either Moscow or Beijing. Sure it would be fun – I loved my train trips in Russia from Moscow to above the Arctic Circle and from Moscow to Sochi on the Black Sea – but the time, cost and hassle factors just don’t make it an option for me. That leaves flying. Two routes are available, via Seoul, South Korea or via Beijing, China. Prices via either gateway city are about the same $1,650 +/-. The Seoul and one Beijing option get you into Ulaanbaatar late at night – after 10:00 – and the other Beijing option has you overnight in Beijing and leave for Ulaanbaatar at just after 5:00 the next morning. If the Beijing overnight option includes lodging in the price and you don’t have to get a visa it might not be too bad. Getting into Ulaanbaatar late at night could be a real pain and you still have lodging cost on arrival. There are several hostels in Ulaanbaatar that are very reasonable but I’m not sure about getting to one of them from the airport. I’ll have to e-mail them to see about it. I’ll let you know later what I decide to do.

According to the US State Department a visa is not required if you http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_973.html are visiting for fewer than 90 days; however, if you plan to stay in Mongolia for more than 30 days you must register with the Office of Immigration, Naturalization, and Foreign Citizens in Ulaanbaatar within seven days of arriving in Mongolia. Since I’m only planning on being there for three weeks it won’t be an issue. The only down side to no Visa is that I won’t have a cool one in my passport to “one up” my son and traveling buddy Dan. He is winning now with his China Visa!

Traveling in a foreign country always poses some risks. Just the language barrier can be an issue if you need help. Ask my friend Ray the Chilean Felon. He had to try to explain to the police about his trespass issue via Google Translate. In the less developed world the risks are even greater and Google Translate doesn’t have a Mongolian option.

Before our adventures, STREAM SIDE ADVENTURES registers with the State Department Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP). This is a program that allows you to enter information about your upcoming trip abroad (https://travelregistration.state.gov/ibrs/ui/index.aspx) so that the Department of State can better assist you in the event of an emergency. In the second world, third world and location with the possibility of natural disaster such as Chile this program is very reassuring to your loved ones.

What about other stuff like money, safety and health issues? The State Departments Mongolian page covers many of those issues and my blog entry (http://normcrisp.blogspot.com/2010/04/basic-survival-stuff.html) covers some additional items. Here is a travel “nugget” we found: Before you leave contact your bank and tell them were you will be so they can make a note on your credit card file. That will keep them from issuing a fraud alert and blocking your card use. It happened to a client in Chile. We were able to help him out. Without access to your money it could be a tough trip.

Now I have to start seriously working on the in-country details! That will be the fun part.

MONGOLIA IN SEPTEMBER?

2011-03-03T13:56:00.000-06:00

I’ve only been home for 8 days and I’m already starting to get itchy feet and not just from not wearing waders in Chile! Several destinations are calling to me but Mongolia is calling the loudest.

Why Mongolia over the other potential places? There are several reasons:

1) I’ve never been there,

2) I love traveling “off the grid”,

3) 3 Salmonids and 5 grayling species , and

4) I’m not getting any younger.

This last reason is important. Doing it on my own is going to be strenuous. Norway for Arctic Char would be relatively simple. Norway has a well-developed infrastructure. An old guy can do that without too much trouble. On the other hand, doing Mongolia on my own will be one hell of a challenge. Yes, I could do it without too much effort through one of the outfitting companies that work there but it isn’t my way of traveling. All I’d really have for the experience is a Mongolian visa stamp in my passport. My appreciation for the people and their culture would be compromised. (Editor’s note: A couple of people I know are convinced I’m a spy of some kind. Fly fishing the world is a great cover!)

Over the next few months my intention is to keep you up to date on how I’m figuring this trip out, where I’m going and send you updates on my experiences. Help me out by telling me, as that great philosopher of our time Bob Seger said, “What to leave in and what to leave out!”

One Last Report - And a Good One

2011-02-19T20:05:00.000-06:00

Damm, I haven’t written anything for over a week! I’m going to use the excuse that I want to let Richard and Tyson write their own reports. Richard left yesterday, the 18th and Tyson left this morning.

Last night was also the last night for Gerlof’s friends Vill and Richard. For those who may not know who he is, Gerlof is the Dutch kid that is out doing me. I think almost six weeks is good. He will be here for 4 months! They were planning on staying up rather late drinking and remembering their time here. Gerlof planned to sleep in until about noon. Plan was that I’d drop Tyson off about 8:30 for his flight home and fish the airport stream. I’d meet Gerlof around noon to give him some extra maps I have.

The airport stream was fishing very well – not wind! – but I was not catching well. I got onto one nice fish after another but just couldn’t finish them off. I keep going further and further, getting into more good fish and hoping to find my Karma. It wasn’t there to be found.

About 1:30 Gerlof and I finally got connected. Gerlof was still a bit tired and perhaps a bit hung over. He and I have been exchanging information on our GEM locations. He had given me the gravel pit so I owed him a good one. As a spire of the moment trip we decided that we would go out and I’d show him the Upper ET and not just how to get there on a map. Both of us being tired and Gerlof still “tender” as he like to say after a long night or hard day of fishing or both, we throw our gear into my truck and headed off. So what happens on a spire of the moment trip? Stuff gets left behind. For me it was my cane (AKA wading staff) and my camera. For Gerlof it was his lanyard and his camera. Can you glimpse the foreshadowing?

We parked on the edge of the road near the corral and header toward the first waterfall. Right off the bat a tired and tender Gerlof missed the trout that hangs out under the ledge at the end of the plunge pool. No big deal everyone that fished there missed him. I hit the run just above the waterfall. This is the one where Randy got the big fish on the 7th (see post of the 8th for pictures of fish). I got either Randy’s fish or his twin. After my Karmaless morning I feel pretty good. Gerlof got the nice long run that always holds big fish but none that have been touched unless we count E getting a hold of Randy’s leader with a big fish on the 3rd of February! He missed it but got E’s big fish of the 7^th two pools upstream. From then on it was just one of those days!

And I mean that in a good way! All the way to the second waterfall we caught one big fish after another! The run under the foot bridge produced a fish about 18 inches. The “Sure Dad” pocket produced a big fish (Editor’s note- On the 3rd I suggested to E that he hit this little side pocket. He looked at me like I’m a fool but did it maybe just to keep the old man happy. He was rewarded and I was vindicated). In fact every pool produced one or more big brown, sometime up to 4. We both caught 10 or more fish in the 18 inch and up range. My trip fish came from a plunge pool half way up the second waterfall. Measuring its length against my rod put it at just about 24 inches!

Of course no pictures since both of us had forgotten to bring our cameras. I bet if we had remembered out cameras it would not have been such a career day condensed into three hours!

It was truly amazing fishing. Tomorrow is my last full day here for this year and I’m not even going to fish. There is no way I could top this afternoon’s trip to the Upper Upper ET!

Rio Huemules and Arco

2011-02-09T15:36:00.000-06:00

The weather has been fantastic the last few days. Bluebird sky, 80 degrees and NO wind! Yesterday’s plan was to go to Balmaceda and fish the airport stream. You don’t get many windless opportunities there. Plan was to get on the road about 9. We came close. We were out about 9:15. I was very happy. Now the other shoe drops. Guess what we find at the airport stream bridge. You got it. Two fishermen just finishing rigging up. Look like they had got there about 10 minutes ago. We missed it by 5 minutes! Plan B, the Rio Huemules.

The Rio Huemules is right on the Chile-Argentina boarder. We stopped at the Immigration and Customs check point and told them what we were going to do and they let you pass. Of course you can’t legally go into Argentina since you technically haven’t left Chile yet. I learned all about that a few years ago between Greece and Turkey. After the Chilean post it about a Km drive to an old bridge (45 54 51.55 S – 71 38 45.67 W). On one side of the bridge a sign says Welcome to Argentina and on the side we parked a sign says Welcome to Chile.

I walked well downstream, Max a shorter distance down and E and Randy fished upstream. The Rio Huemules is deeply incised into the pampas, has a sandy bottom with areas of weeds along some of the banks. The fish are not really what I would call spooky but were very aware of their surroundings.

I saw 5 fish, all over 18 inches and there was one I didn’t see at first. I plopped a big foam hopper about 6 inches from some weeds and in a heartbeat I was into the biggest trout of my life! Now I preach “Exit Strategy” to my clients. Mine didn’t work because I didn’t have one! I was about 6 feet above the Huemules and on the same side as the weeds and the fish. My strategy should have been to slide off the bank and turn him away from the weeds. I did turn him away from the weeds for a second but he got into them. In the Valley of the Moon when that happened I had Ethan with me. He went in and worked the fish out of the weeds. I had to try and work my way down the leader picking off weeds with one hand and holding my rod in the other. I could feel tugging on the leader and every once in a while feel water moving against my leg. Then the tugging stopped. I put my rod down to expedite getting my leader out of the weeds. Second mistake. He was still on and just resting. Unprepared for his rush out all I could do is watch as a brown close to 30 inches shoot across the Huemles and under the bank on the other side.

After lunch in Balmaceda we headed back toward Coyhaique with as stop to fish the Arroyo Arco. We fished it right above the bridge last year but locals apparently fish it hard. Four years ago I went upstream a bit above the bridge and did OK. Randy and I went up to the second fence across the river and started fishing there. The Arco fished well. We both got several nice rainbows and even nicer browns. The deep holes only produced fish about 12 inches long. They all had a lot of “trout tracks” around them. The Arco is back on the fishing list.

E went home today. We fished the airport stream so we could fish until about two hours before his flight left. I got him to the airport about 1, we had a beer and then I headed back to the stream. At just after 3 when his plane flew over I raised my rod in a salute. I’m going to miss him. Of course on the plus side it means that we don’t have to compete with the big fish catching machine anymore.

When you come down with us next year make sure it is while E is here. He will put you over some great fish!

To busy fishing

2011-02-08T06:33:00.000-06:00

Sorry I’ve been derelict in keeping you up to date on our ADVENTURES. We have been getting in rather late most nights. Add stopping for the “first fish” guy to by a beer and then getting diner and most nights it is pushing mid-night before we are really settled in. Today we are going south toward Balmaceda. Great little local place to eat lunch there so I have time to blog rather than make lunch.

Snow storms messed Randy and Max up.

Randy got here a day early and Max got here a day late. So they averaged out. We fished the upper ET with Randy on the 3^rd. Randy is primarily a nympher. Line control was a bit of an issue for him. He tended to keep his rod tip up rather than pointed at the fly and wasn’t stripping in line fast enough. Net result was when he tried to set the hook he was moving line rather than getting good contact with the fish. Several good fish on but nothing landed.

On the 5^th we took them up to the Valley of the Moon. Wind was not bad so we expected a banner day. We got a couple of good fish, missed a few more and E put a fly over a 24 inch plus fish. Fish never even looked at it than turned and casually swam downstream 50 feet and under a bank.

On the 6^th we fished the Guillermo upstream of the Villa Ortaga bridge. Lots of 10 to 13 inch rainbows, a few browns in that range, and as it typically is the biggest fish for Ethan.

Yesterday we were back at the upper ET. E and randy when going to head well up while Max and I were going to fish the lower portion. Plan was that Max and I would drive up to a simple walkout point we had found a few days ago and pick them up in 4 and a half hours. Well we got there 10 minutes late and they were 40 minutes late. I expected it.

“So how was it.”

“OK for the ET.”

“Really, just OK.”

“Ya, this was the best we could do.”

ET - Call It Home!

2011-02-04T07:05:00.000-06:00

Two years ago I found a way to get to the Estero Turbio (editor’s note: since I never get the pronunciation quite right now, at Ethan insistence, we refer to it as the ET) above the gorge section that stopped E and I a couple of days ago. Just above the gorge two tributaries come together to form the ET. The fishing is very good up there, especially the right descending tributary.

Now that I’ve found the way in, fishing this area is a snap. There is a wide spot on the road to park and an old gate to get through so you don’t have to climb the 7 strand wire fence. Once through the gate it is a simple stroll over the ridge to the river. There is one small catch. We ware quick dry shorts rather than waders. The field we have to get through has a lot of a plant the locals call “hijo de puta”. Look it up on google translate. It is nice to get into the cold water after the walk.

The fishing is not very good. It is very great. And the surroundings are breath taking. Rather than being “gorgy” it more of a steep valley like with rock outcrops and waterfalls of various heights. In the lower section the banks are grass lined with some thorny brush. The river is a series of sections of pocket water separated by long pools about 3 to 5 feet deep with the occasional 10 foot deep plunge pool. As you get higher up the watershed, closer to cloud level, the stream side vegetation becomes more lush and wooded. On the walk out yesterday, Randy said the area reminded him of scenes from “Lord of the Rings”.

All we catch are browns, and plenty of them. Each trip up the river gives up a fair share of 18 inch plus fish. Maybe even better is that the average fish is about 14 inches and there are a lot of them.

To get the full value of the fish you have to see how big Randy is!

HOLA!

2011-02-01T20:18:00.000-06:00

When we last heard from “Normando” and his fishing amigo “Ethando” they were still in the afterglow of a fantastic fishing day in the Valley of the Moon. Sunday morning, the 30th of January, found them looking out of Veronica’s kitchen window at a steady rain. Undaunted, but slowly, they prepared for their day. Perhaps over the mountains and out of the Rio Simpson valley by Villa Ortaga it would be dry. And if it was raining there they could go over the next mountains toward the Richards.

It was still raining when they got to Villa Ortaga, so they turned to the east and headed for the Richards. It was raining there as well! But it wasn’t a wasted trip. There is a farmhouse where the Richards come close to the road. This area is above an impassable gorge. Even with a name like “Normando”, he can only say a couple of thing in Spanish. His Spanish is so bad that last year he told the attended at the service station to fill the truck with “hotdogs”. But his trusty companion Ethando is rather fluent. Over the gate and to the farmhouse they went. The farmer said it was OK to fish there. They have another new place to fish and explore. Back toward Coyhaique they headed with a quick stop in Villa Ortaga to make sure the little restaurant/living room they had eaten in last year was still in operation. It is.

Monday’s plan was to fish the Pedregosa from the bridge up to just above the first gorge. As they came down over the hill they could see a truck parked there. So, on they went toward Coyhaique Alto where the landscape is more pampas like to fish the Pedregosa above the gorges on the Estancia del Zorro.

Things are changing in Patagonia. Chile’s rules are Montana rules. If you can access a stream at a public access point you can walk the banks to fish. In fact, most farmers wouldn’t say anything to you if you were fishing without asking first. We still always try to find the farmer and ask first. On the smaller rivers and streams it has never been a problem getting permission. The big lodges and operations are changing things. The Cinco Rio/Estancia del Zorro consortium is a prime example. The Estancia’s 15,000 acres on the upper Pedregosa is clearly posted “No Trespassing” in both Spanish and English. Additionally the consortium is purchasing leases on other properties. (Follow this link to get a feel for things http://www.cincorios.cl/articles/flyfisherman02.html)

Estancia del Zerro property would be off limits but a tributary of the Pedragosa would be OK to fish. It flowed from the north, under the bridge and onto the Estancia. Upstream of the bridge would be OK. And OK it was. Ethando had the better Karma, both in terms of size and number of fish, than Normando’s. Both of them could have used a little more big fish Karma. There were opportunities for both of them but they couldn’t finish the job.

Valley of the Moon

2011-01-30T08:39:00.000-06:00

Yesterday – Saturday – we drove up to an area called the Valley of the Moon.

Based on my limited geologic knowledge I can't be sure but my bet is that is the remnants of a caldera. The lava plugs, rim of distant hills and flat landscape are

my clues. Even if I’m wrong it is still a cool place to see. And, one hell of a good place to fish.

This is the pampas. Wide open whit nothing to stop the wind. And windy it can be and was! But not as windy as it was one time we tried to fish it last year. That day the wind was blowing so hard that it was picking up pebbles and blowing against the truck. Yesterday wasn’t quite that bad but the wind blew hard enough to make us think twice about rigging up and trying to fish. But we did.

Pampas streams are almost a hybrid cross between a western meadow stream and a spring creek. Most gringos refer to them as spring creeks. Definition is just a choice of words. Two words work well: wind and great fish.

A crawl under the fence and a 100 meter walk and we were on the stream. The wind was blowing from every way except head on. Precision casting was out of the question. If I could get my fly within 2 meters of where I wanted it I was happy. If the wind died down for a moment and I could get my fly within half a meter of where I wanted it I was ecstatic!

Early on the fishing was slow. But once we started applying a bit of “Kentucky Windage” to our casting things started to improve. And I think as we moved a bit further up the river the wind seemed to be a little less intense. The transition into the head of a pool produced fish.

But the best fish came from long arrow straight pools. These sections were a uniform as if they had been channelized. Step off the bank and you were in

waist deep water. The water was about the same depth all the way across the river. The logical place to cast was tight to the banks. And it worked but not necessary any better than anyplace across the width. And with the wind plowing the way it was it make for simple fishing. Get it anyplace in the water and be ready!

I’m not sure how many Km’s we fished with the river meandering its way across the pampas. Following a straight fence back to the truck took about an hour and a half.

There was only one thing wrong with the day. Both E and I thought the other had put a six pack of Crystal in the truck. Almost 80 Km’s back to Coyhaique for a beer!

ESTERO TURBIO

2011-01-30T06:51:00.000-06:00

It is so nice having E here in Chile with me. And I don’t mean just to have someone who can read the menu. I’ve been blessed with two fine sons and friends. I have tried very hard not to live the Harry Chappin song “Cat’s in the cradle”. I think we have succeeded. I hope Ethan and Dan feel the same way.

On Friday’s you can get a fishing permit here in Coyhaique. A little after 9 we were there but were told we had to wait about an hour for the man to arrive. No big problem. We ambled over the Full Fresh grocery store and stocked up on supplies for the day. At 10, with E’s permit in hand we were off to one of E’s favorite places to fish, Estero Turbio, a tributary to the Guillermo.

Estero Turbio has a moderate gradient with some longer pools separated by stretches of riffles. The pockets in the riffles are not real big but with a well-placed cast will produce a fish. Most are 10 to 12 inches but a few will be closer to 14. The best fish of the day was a “gimme” from Ethan. It was his turn when we reached a great run. E is a great caster. By that I mean not only distance – what most perceive as the definition of good – but more importantly pin point precision at a 20 foot distance. I once heard a quote attributed to Kansas City golfer Tom Watson: “Drive for show but putt for dough.” We fly fishers should take Tom’s advice and work on our short game if we want to catch more fish.

Back to the “gimme.” Anyway E had to hook the end of his cast in behind a couple of cane stocks hanging out over the Estero. Typically an easy cast for him. A split second before his cast was going to come in behind the cane and into the current seam a gust of wind blew his fly onto the last 6 inches of the cane. There was no way I could have made the cast Ethan had come within a fraction of a second of making. But now I had everything going for me. I sent E a little downstream and across the stream and with his fly still on the tip of the cane, had him pull his line to get the cane back out of the way. All I have to do was make a relatively simple 20 foot cast. I did it and was rewarded with a good – but not great – fish.

With two of us fishing I was more comfortable in exploring further upstream than I had ever been. I had always turned back at the first gorge. These streams are in such rugged terrain and/or are so remote that if something happened to you, likely you would be found by an archeologist, if at all. (My Dutch friend Gerlof, who like me is often alone someplace remote, carries a satellite phone in his backpack.) One long and rough gorge section finally lead to the end of the road for us.

Walking out we decided to follow a sheep path up to the top of a ridge rather than retrace our path back through the gorge section. It worked out just fine. Not only was it less demanding than scurrying over the rocks but at the top of the ridge we came upon an old farmstead and two cherry trees. I had forgotten how good cherries are.

A Day Of Rest

2011-01-27T16:12:00.000-06:00

Today has been an easy day. Ethan arrive at about 2 so there weren’t a lot of places to fish besides the airport stream and he had asked me to save it for him. Just a bit of housekeeping – go to the ATM, buy ibuprofen and get some groceries. Boy did I need an easy day after three hard days of fishing with my young Dutch friend Gerlof. Some words don’t translate exactly right but in reality they translate perfectly. Sore is an example. From Dutch to English it becomes “tender”. Tender is exactly how every bone in my body feels.

Boca de Leon on the 24th was a strenuous day of fishing. It runs fast and is a snow-melt stream so it is very cold. Fighting the current and lose of body heat makes for a tired body at the end of the day. I woke up “tender” on the 25th.

Gerlof was enthralled with my account of the Perdragosa and how, just maybe, around the next bend from where I stopped above the gorge it might become more of a pampas stream. Well after climbing around over and through four gorges we turned back. This one damn near stopped me, but if Gerlof thought we could make it who am I to say time to go back. We finally turned back at the next gorge, mainly because of the time. We make it back to Coyhaique just in time to order dinner before the restaurant stopped service at 9:00.

Remember my whining on the 23rd about no new place anymore. While I’m sure that very few, if any other, “gringo’s” fished as far up the Perdragosa as we did. So how was the fishing? We caught a lot of fish but nothing over 14 inches and the average was about 10 inches. We did see a couple of 18 inch plus fish, but all the fish were extremely spooky. Nothing messes up a good pool like little fish running from along the banks or there fight when you hook on. If there is a next time it will be longer leaders and a quieter approach.

Two hard days of fish and I was out of ibuprofen. But Gerlof had heard that the Rio Toque was good so we decided to head over there for a day of exploration. The Rio Toque is about 130 Km north Coyhaique. I had been over there on my first trip to Chile but hadn’t fished Rio Toque because of its high gradient and a big mine – Zinc I think – about 15 Km up the river. My experience around mines in Missouri suggested that even with the best environmental protections there are still generally some environmental issues that would affect the fisheries. But, thanks to my friend Ray, the Chilean felon, I now have 1:50,000 scale maps of that area. According to the map, above the mine the gradient was relatively low and the Rio Toque meandered. Just maybe it would be like the Nireguao in the Valley of the Moon! Well it was and it wasn’t. We didn’t walk all the way up to an area of a typical pampas stream but it had a good mix of bend pools and rocky riffles. For those of you familiar with the East Fork of the Encampment it

reminded me a lot of that. Worth going back for? It was a long day driving and fishing. If it was closer I’d go more often.

GETTING YOU CAUGHT UP

2011-01-25T06:25:00.000-06:00

It has been a few days since I’ve let you know about the fishing, so let me get you caught up on the three places I’ve been.

Saturday the 22nd. I went back to what is most likely my favorite river/watershed, the Guillermo. Just after you pass Villa Ortaga you come to the first of several Route 7 bridges over the Guillermo. I fished several kilometers downstream of the bridge a few days ago and I’ve fished it several kilometers upstream but I’ve always passed this section by. I've stopped and looked up and down from the bridge the over the years but have always passed this section by. It doesn’t look fishy – straight and almost with a channelized look with high banks of hubbie to larger rock. (For those of you that don’t know what a hubbie is, it is a New Hampshire term for a rock that is bigger than a baseball but smaller than a softball. You don’t throw hubbies, you chuck them. Since it is long gone, as am I, I’ll now admit that as a kid I chucked more than a few hubbies at the Hame Shop hoping to break one of the remaining windows.)

The Guillermo has both rainbows and brown. Like any river that has both, you can fairly well predict which species you are going to catch with each cast, depending on the micro-habitat. Pockets and riffles produced mostly rainbows and slower water and runs produced browns. No more than a hundred meters above the bridge the Guillermo losses some of its gradient and starts to develop some broad brown trout bends with rainbow riffles at the head of the bends. The way the Guillermo bends and snakes I have no idea of how far I fished and I didn’t bother to look at my watch when I started. About 5:30 I told myself I would keep fishing until the next fence. Ten minutes later I started the walk back along the river bank. It took me about 40 minutes to walk out. Typical Chile small stream day – a LOT of fish in the 12 to 14 inch range with enough 16 inch fish to keep the adrenalin running for the good possibility of a 20 incher.

Sunday the 23rd. Chile is the salmon aquaculture for food capitol of the world. Many of the rivers have salmon hatching and juvenile rearing stations. Last year we explored over near Maniguales. That exploration was a bust. But after we crossed the rickety old suspension bridge over the Maniguales, we turned left. What if we had turned right? Over the winter I traced the right hand turn on Google Earth. Upstream on a tributary of the Maniguales I found a hatchery. The value of a hatchery is primarily the increase in fertility just downstream. Chilean streams are not very fertile. The hatchery is on the Pica Flora River. It is a spectacular river to see. So spectacular that I might even be willing to float it just to see more of it and to catch some of its fish. It is crystal clear with big down and submerged trees and tree lined banks. The only spot I could easily fish gave me a 13 inch brown on my only cast.

Just about a kilometer north of the hatchery is a fork in the road. The right fork takes you back to Route 7. The left fork heads toward Rio Picacho (to see the area go to 45^O 58’ south and 72^O 17’ west via Google Earth). Two gates and a stream ford after turning left, the “road” ran next to the Rio Cobarde for about 50 meters. The Cobarde looked nice and there was space to pull the truck of the road. Down I went. I fished about 500 meters of the river. Early on it was just the odd 12 inch fish. I was fishing a big foam hopper like pattern with a 14 caddis about 24 feet behind it. Either fly produced fish.

Then I came to the best water of the day. Three cast and 60 inches of fish! (I just took a couple of sips of my coffee to let that sentence sink in with you!) I did it the hard way. The foam hopper would hit the water and a 12 inch fish would come up and take it. Before I could land it an 8 inch fish would take the dragging caddis. Three casts in a row it happened. I’ve had more than a few two for’s with a dry - nymph dropper combo but only one other time with two dries. As I climbed up on the bank to walk back I did see a BIG fish. A fresh Chinook Salmon about 3 feet long shoot out from a root wad. The Cabarde is a long way from Coyhaique – about 120 Km. I might go back over there again before I head back. Hell, just seeing the Pica Flora is damm near worth the drive!

Monday 24th. Last year we meet a young Dutchman who comes over here for almost 5 months. Nice young man and a kindred spirit. We both prefer to fish the smaller streams and both are always looking for the “stream less fished”. We connected Sunday night and off we went to fish yesterday.

Our destination was Baco de Leon, a tributary of Largo Elizalde. My first year in Chile I caught a 24 inch rainbow from the Baco. The Baco is a snow melt stream and there is still a lot of snow in the mountains. It was running about 20 cm too high to fish well and a few degrees colder that French Creek Cold. Made me wish I had worn my waders until we had to walk out. The less than ideal conditions limited our success a bit. Nothing over about 14 inches for either of us.

In about an hour I’m going to pick up my Dutch friend and we are going to spend the day above the Pedragosa Gorge! Let’s hope it gets “meadowy” with some undercut banks!